By doing one bulkhead at a time and test fitting with a piece of timber, we were able to ensure the angle of each notch is right for the path of the stringer, with no huge gaps.
Once we were happy with the notches in the rear four on both sides, we glued the stringer in and clamped it overnight, before finessing the notches in the bow. This was mainly because we don't have enough clamps to do two stringers full length. Here's the aft port side all glued up and clamped.
Barrett Faneuf was all fancy with her transom, and used a saw to cut the planks edgewise into thin slices. I have no saw. What I do have (thanks Dai!) is a thumping big router with a 25mm bit, a huge hand plane, and a whole lot of
After a couple of days of going at it with the router, I had a really rough surface approximately 6mm thick, which I could then plane smooth. This I did with my awesome English Stanley no. 7, the smootherator.
Putting the doubler on the transom gave me another opportunity to use all my clamps at once.
I've used epoxy paints before, I've used water based paints, and I've used polyurethanes. This stuff is a bit of a mix of all of the above. The undercoat is a two part waterbased epoxy. No isocyanates as far as I can tell (yay!), and simplified clean up because you can flush most of the mess out with water. There's a brush-clogging residue left though that has to be removed with epoxy thinners.
This stuff is extremely thick. It builds quicker than any paint I've used before, and refuses to level. I used a 5mm nap roller to put the first layer on, then tried a brush for the second coat. I think I'll try thinning it out rather more than the recommended 10% next time, to save myself quite a bit of sanding.
Based on my experience with the undercoat, I tried spraying the top coats, a polyurethane with a cross-linker that you bung in just before going to work. Again, 10% thinning as recommended is nowhere near enough. It sets up in mere minutes. I can see a path to gloss without buffing, but I've got a ways to go before I reach that. Anyway, here's the centerboard. From two feet it looks fantastic. Just don't look too closely!
The Dawn vice, while very nicely made, was disappointingly not made in Australia, as I was led to believe from their website. Instead it's Taiwanese. It's also actually a Wilton, branded Dawn. I like the vice, but I'm a bit miffed at being mislead about its origins.
That said, I'm close to done with bulkheads. I installed six and seven this weekend. They're quite floppy for now, being secured only by their corners.
As planned, the centerboard case comes up level with the rowing thwart, so it's a comfortable seat. I sat on it today and sang "row row row your boat", much to Perry's bemusement.
First one is a lovely little Veritas crosscut saw, which cuts through the ply very easily and makes a lovely cut. Here it is having just cut the inner gunwale notch on bulkhead 4.
I find that if I'm patient and methodical, and work tools with the 300 grit stone, then the 25um, 15um, 9um aluminium oxide on the plate, then strop with an old belt loaded up with cerium oxide, I get a blade that I can see my own reflection in and that's sharp enough to do surgery with. When that blade meets a bit of timber, it just cuts through it like it's butter.
A few wipes on the 300 grit stone then five minutes with 25um and 15um aluminium oxide gets me most of the way there in a tiny fraction of the time. No reflection, alas, but I can still make lovely cuts easily. It'll be interesting to see how the 1200 and 6000 grit waterstones compare.
I started by using a scarf joint to join a couple of bits of 90x19 Tasmanian oak, that'll be my keel plank. Scarf joints have been used since their first appearance at the Melbourne Cricket Ground in the eighteen eighties... Anyway this is a 6:1 scarf, and makes my two 2.4m planks one 4.8m one.