My upside-down boat makes a handy workbench.
My upside-down boat makes a handy workbench.
I bought 10m of 135gsm fibreglass, and laid it in two strips either side of the centreboard case, with a little overlap where the keelson will end up. Here's the first side placed. It was quite a bit easier than I anticipated. Just lay the fibreglass on the hull and pour some unthickened epoxy on top, then work the epoxy in using a plastic squeegee. The fibreglass just lays down nicely. Then once the epoxy has had a little time to set up, the excess gets trimmed. The photo shows in between trimming the edge and the stern.
We started by hoisting the boat straight up. Some Jarrah beams rigged between two industrial shelf supports provided a lifting point, and we used slings around the hull. Once the building frame was pulled clear, the boat is now hanging by a thread, as it were.
If I try to do too much at once, the epoxy heats up in the pot, which makes it go runny, and then rapidly go everywhere but where I want it, so I have to work methodically with small batches. Anybody who knows me will know that methodical just isn't me.
Now I don't know about you, but there's only so many "one weird tip" or "Ellen scandal" ads that I can cope with before going completely postal. The straw for me came in the form of a "vdopia" popup autoplaying video ad on mac rumours, which was not only incredibly irritating but also broke the mac rumours site.
In any case, I was desperate to find a way to browse the net on my iPad without having my eyes constantly burned out by incredibly obnoxious ads. I tried a couple of replacement browsers, but found they were even more obnoxious than the ads they blocked. The solution for me came in the form of privoxy, which is an adblocking proxy server.
This is where the new mac Mini comes in. The latest model (as well as having a huge 2TB hard drive for my media and super fast processor and video) draws a piddling 7W of mains power when idle, and are totally silent. I've had PCs that used more power than that when they were switched off. It's the perfect media server, and also the perfect proxy server.
So here's the secret sauce for getting privoxy running on new Macs running OS X Yosemite. It's based on instructions at Andrew Watters' blog with extensions to allow access from other machines on your local network (i.e. the iPads) and also to work around some Yosemite launchd weirdness:
1. Your mac needs to have a static IP address, so other machines on your network know where it is. I like to use my router to allocate IP addresses, so I set up a binding in there to ensure my mini always comes up at the same IP, but is still able to run DHCP. In my case, I run ifconfig from the terminal, and copy the mac address from the active interface, then paste that into the "DHCP reservations" field for my router using airport utility. I gave it a fixed IP of 10.0.1.101, which is easy to remember.
Note this isn't an address you can get to from the outside internet, as the router is still doing NAT. It's just for machines local to your router. Alas your eyes will still cop the obnoxious ads when you're away from your home network, but for me 90% of my net browsing is done at home, so this is good enough.
2. Now install Xcode from Apple. This is the apple software development suite, and includes compilers etc, which we'll use for compiling privoxy from source.
2a. You'll also need autoconf. The version linked to in Andrew's blog didn't work with the latest version of Xcode/os x, so I just found the newest version. From the terminal:
curl -OL http://ftpmirror.gnu.org/autoconf/autoconf-2.69.tar.gz
tar -xzf autoconf-2.69.tar.gz
sudo make install
3. Add a user for privoxy, and associate them with a freshly created privoxy group.
4. Download the privoxy source, and install it:
tar -xzf privoxy-3.0.22-stable-src.tar
sudo make install
sudo pico /usr/local/etc/privoxy/config
While you're in there, you need to change enable-remote-toggle to 1, enable-edit-actions to 1, and insert your IP address in place of the loopback at listen-address. Detailed instructions are on Andrew's blog
6. After much stuffing about, I worked out that launchd under Yosemite doesn't run the daemon when you use the RunAtLoad key. I found "KeepAlive" worked, and is more in keeping with what you want the OS to do with a daemon like this. So when you set up /Library/LaunchDaemon/org.privoxy.plist, substitute "KeepAlive" for "RunAtLoad"
7. Reboot to get the daemon running, and edit the proxy server setting on your iPad (settings->wifi) to manual, and enter the IP address of your mac, with port 8118.
Thanks Andrew, you're a champ!
Anyway, pictures. First here's a close up of a clamp in place. If you look closely on the stringer side, you'll see a simple length of wood spanning the stringers:
Anyway, it's getting to the point where it looks like it might even float. Here's the stern section, with the cockpit seats all buttoned up and all the planking done. I resisted the urge to paint out the inside of the cockpit seats. I gave it a thorough coating of epoxy and left it at that.
For the join between the aft and midships section of the top plank I elected to do a scarf rather than a butt-join. This is purely cosmetic - this join isn't hidden behind seats so I don't want an ugly lump of wood showing.
I bought a piece of C220 bronze sheet from McMaster Carr recently to make bits from. So far I've used some to make plates to support the becket on my centerboard uphaul, and the cover plate featured in my last post on the front thwart. McMaster advertised a 2" x 24" x 0.09" piece of bronze for US$41.27. Expensive, but them's the brakes. I ordered it, and it showed up a week or so later. The cost on my card: AU$106.72. So the shipping was just as expensive as the metal.
So I asked on the woodenboat forum if there were any alternatives to McMaster, and found online metals. They will cut sheets to fairly arbitrary sizes, and are at least upfront with shipping. I tried a 12x1x0.125" piece of 220 bronze. US$14 for the bronze, but a staggering US$123 for shipping. Just for fun, I tried a 1x1x0.125 piece:
First thing first, I finished off the front thwart. That meant making mounts for various pieces of gear; a 180W sinewave inverter for charging electronics from the battery, an AIS transponder, and an antenna switcher so the AIS transponder and VHF radio can share the same antenna. I also made some access holes in the thwart, both for the VHF antenna, near the mast tabernacle, and so that I can run power and coax back to the cockpit for a radio.
In the first photo you can see where I've added rails for the gear (on the inside, alas). You can also see a little bronze plate I made to seal up the antenna port, just next to the spine.